The Mineral Paint has a built-in satin sealant so it's perfect for those of you who want to flip your pieces quickly and want an 'all-in-one' type paint. However, if you want peace of mind when flipping a high traffic piece, I recommend you apply a coat or two of Polyseal. All our finishes are designed to be applied over both lines of paint.
Chalk and Clay Paint is a great paint for those of you who love a rustic, velvety, chalky, matte finish and want the flexbility to spray or distress a piece (chippy, worn look). It's porous by nature so requires additional sealing with Polyseal, Finishing Wax, or a Finishing Oil for durability. It's a great paint for those of you want complete control over your finish.
It's more economical to use if you're painting large or several pieces given it's availability in a 1L size.
In short, no! That is the main benefit of using our dedicated furniture paints.
For most pieces, a good clean is sufficient - the paint is formulated to bond to surfaces. The only times I would recommend you use a primer is over metal, glass, ceramic, bleeding timbers such as Indonesian or mahogany species, which tend to bleed through any paint finish.
In those cases I would recommend using an appropriate base coat or with the bleeding timbers apply one or two coats of Polyseal which incredibly acts as both a blocker/primer and sealant. Who doesn't love a three in one?!
This is diffiicult to answer, but to give you a rough estimate this is what I've used for typically sized projects.
|Dining room table & 6 chairs|
Large hutch or wall unit
Yes you can! If using Chalk and Clay Paint I recommend sealing with a Finishing Wax. If using Mineral Paint, it should be fine as it is. Be sure to add only small amounts of water to the paint as needed when applying coats, do not dilute the paint too much for an optimal outcome.
Yes, if the furniture is sheltered and not in direct sunlight. If exposed to full sun then our paint can still be used but we recommend a UV protective topcoat sealant.
You can also use a quality mohair or foam roller if you're more of a roller fan.
Yep you sure can! It takes a while to get the hang of the technique but it will significantly reduce your labour time.
The most economical way to do this is with our 1L tins of Chalk and Clay Paint - you can use either an electric powered or air compressor powered spray gun.
I personally recommend using an air compressor powered Low Volume Low Pressure (LVLP) gravity fed gun with a 1.0mm - 2.0mm tip.
But why? The reason I prefer it over an electric powered spray gun is the level of control you have over the finish and the paint output. It's also easier and lighter to use than most electric powered guns which tend to be quite bulky. Also, the gravity helps guide the paint down into the tip where electric units need to suck the paint up and it often leads to paint wastage.
The Finishing Oils are going to give you a buildable tint of colour great if you want control over your opacity. They can be used over both Chalk & Clay Paint (stunning over the darker colours) as a sealant and on raw timber.
Engrained Stains and really meant to be applied over raw timber to change the colour of the wood. They're a matte finish and two coats are generally recommended (unless working with 'Gallery White' which is very opaque).
Both lines can be used on high traffic surfaces like kitchen counter tops, kitchen or bathroom cabinets.
For specific application instructions check out 'How To Apply Finishing Oils or Engrained Stains' and be sure to read the manufacturers advice on the side of the tin.
Yes, our paints and finishes are non-toxic and VOC free.
That depends. Sometimes it's difficult to identify the substrate used (especially if you've purchased it from someone else) I'd advise scuff sanding with a 120 grit or higher first to give the surface 'teeth' to grip onto and patch testing first. If it bonds well, then proceed!
Nope! Not until you've completely removed all traces of wax from your piece and even then there's no guarantees it'll bond - wax will resist whatever you put over it.
There are two main ways to remove wax, using Mineral Spirits or sanding the piece right back.
Something to consider when choosing your finish is the likelihood of you wanting to touch up or re-paint your piece - if you fall into either of those camps, I'd recommend you use Polyseal which can be safely painted over down the track.